Galapagos -Part 3

Swimming with the Sealions - 'without' a zoom on the underwater camera!

Galapagos Photos - Part 1.

1. Male Frigate bird sitting on the nest.
2.Red Footed Booby bird (my favourite) - also sitting on it's nest!
3.Red Footed Booby getting close to A.J.
4.Early morning scene - a beautiful panorama
5. Our boat
6.Group of penguins - these are the first 6 photos of the Galapagos (they took nearly an hour to load!!!) Next lot coming soon.

Amazon

Coming to the Amazon 'after' going to the Glapagos Islands could be disappointing unless you stop and remember that the opportunities to be exposed to nature in the G.Islands are so unique. The size, variety and the proximity of the animals is almost unbelievable.

So, we flew to the west of Quito to a small 'city' of Coca, took a long boat along the Napo River for 90 mins (at speed), a walk of a couple of kms followed by a dugout canoe for half an hour across a lake to arrive at the eco lodge called Sacha Lodge. The Napo River is a tributary of the Amazon. From here it flows south and west to Iquitos in the very north of Peru, where it joins the Amazon (Matt went into Iquitos and along the Amazon last year). Sacha Lodge has a 1800 Ha reserve of mainly flooded rain forest which is accessed by canals in a dug out canoe. There are also walking trails on 'terra firma' which we have been guided around. The Amazon basin is more about detail than the Galapagos. There are many birds (near and far), insects and spiders (yes, the Tarantula) butterflies, monkeys (we have seen 5 species), and water inhabitants - turtles, Caiman (crocs), piranhas and yesterday we saw an electric eel!!! and a sloth in the distance. We spent four days and nights at Sacha Lodge and with the appointed guide saw most species that we could expect to see. The accommodation was great (raised wooden cabins accessed by walkways from a communal restaurant). Activities involved walks, canoe trips, a forest observation tower and a canopy walkway. Then there was swimming in the lake. Claire and I have given up on that activity after spotting the 2m croc under the point where you launch off from!!!! Not to mention the piranha fish caught at the same spot yesterday!!!

The local lake water is 'black water' from all the surrounding humus that 'taints' the water and this ‘black’ water discourages insects like mosquitoes! J. The Napo River, along with the Amazon is chocolate brown from all the sediment it carries down from its source in the Andes Mts.

From here we return to Quito for a couple of days before flying to Lima, Peru on 30th May.

Galapagos

The Galapagos Islands lie almost 1000kms off the west coast of Ecuador and take just under 2 hours to fly from the mainland. There are over 60 exposed land masses lying both north and south of the equator, though only 13 of those would be classed as significantly large. Our boat - a catamaran is 25m x 10 m and takes a max. of 16 passenger (with an additional 10 crew including the guide). We started with 16 passengers for the first 4 days, then 5 left (doing the 4 day option) and we are now a 'select' eleven. In the 8 days / 7 nights we will visit 6 of the main islands. Each one is quite different (all volcanic, but vary significantly in age and consequently the amount of vegetation covering the island is different) and the animals and birds you find, vary too. It is not possible to visit this national park without a guide and the choice is a land based visit with day trips to different places or a boat trip of 4,5,8,11 days or longer. We have made use of the night time to travel between islands – sometimes 4 or 5 hours but as much as 7 hours – with a variety of swells to contend with (later in the season it is rougher, so that’s another advantage of coming now!!!) We are pleased we decided on the boat trip and waiting until we got to Ecuador proved the best decision (financially), as we took advantage of the last minute deals on offer. This trip would have cost more than double had we booked from N.Z. Each day we have walked and snorkelled at a different place.

So, we have seen the famous Blue Footed Boobies and since then, 2 other varieties (red footed,which are the best - beautiful fawn brown feathers, blue around their beaks and with their 'webbed' feet they sit and nest in trees!!!,  and Masked, or Narzca Boobies), the giant Frigate birds, land Iguanas, Storm Petrel bird, big Sally Lighfoot Crabs (red), giant tortoises, penquins, albatrosses, a snake constricting a lizard, giant centipedes, marine Iguanas, pink flamingoes and loads of other animals and birds and today (Friday), the highlight so far was snorkelling with the sea lions. The photos that we will share on the blog of the sealions are 'without' a zoom lens on my underwater camera!!!! They came that close you thought they would hit you before turning away. It was something amazing. In fact none of the animals here appear to be concerned about humans. We are told to keep 2 m from the animals but at times they come way closer to you, nest on the path and you have to scramble off the path to keep clear. A.J. stopped to have a drink the other day and a Red Footed Booy simply leaned out of it's tree nest looking like it was going to take a drink too!

You do come to the Galapagos to see the wildlife but also the landscape. The other day we walked on an ancient larva flow (it looked less than a year old), which was so wide, so barren and so contrasting to the surrounding landscape. And, not to forget to mention soooooo hot!! This is the 'transition season' for Galapagos when the water hasn't turned cold with the Humboldt current arriving but the air temperature is less hot and humid than earlier in the year. We think we have picked the best time but the busiest season is still to arrive (Nth American holiday season).

Photos following when the wi-Fi connection is better.

Otavalo in Ecuador and onto Galapagos Is.

The last two pictures from Banos are from our final day when we treated ourselves to a steam bath and massage at our hostel.  As you can see the steam baths were like individual sauna boxes which thankfully left your head uncovered as they were very hot and the treatment included alternating between these and dousings with cold water – supposedly very cleansing!!!  We then went out for dinner at a cool café where we sat and watched a movie and then had a meal with Lana who was an Australian girl travelling alone who joined us for a few days.

Then on to Otavalo which is north of Quito and renowned for its large open air market.  We started our first day early at the animal market where locals trade chickens, guinea pigs, rabbits, cattle, sheep and pigs.  Every animal rights movement in NZ would have a field day there and it pays not to think too much about your next meal when you see the chickens and pigs trussed and carted away.  The picture of Robin next to one of the locals at the market shows how small the people are - he literally towers above them and I (Claire) have never felt so statuesque.  There were a number of older people begging at the market who soon discovered that Robin was a soft touch and despite looking very forlorn some managed to miraculously appear on each corner ahead of us to receive another coin.  It was refreshing to see the locals and stall owners offering them food and money – we have noted that despite the financial status of the locals, people and pet animals seem well fed and happy. We had a cheap and tasty meal at the night market where the kebabs were fantastic and in fact drew us back for a repeat order the following evening.  The market stalls are dismantled every evening and set up again in the morning.  The items for sale are packed away in huge sacks which are then carried out on the backs of guys who literally run back and forwards from the storage area.  They have a leather strap around their forehead and are bent double under the weight.  Robin followed the guy in the picture to test the weight of his load and said he could hardly move it.  We visited the Condor Park on our final morning and saw many large birds of prey including Condors, Falcons, Eagles and Owls some of which were brought out by their handlers and allowed to soar above the valley below.  We took the local bus back to Quito – the cost was $2 each for a two and a half hour trip!

We are now at Galapagos on the afternoon of our third day. The other passengers (16 in total) include 3 Swiss, 5 Americans, 2 English, 2 Ecuadorians and 10 crew.  We are definitely not roughing it!!  As anticipated the animal and bird life is spectacular.  The islands we have visited have large numbers of blue and red footed boobies, frigates and other birds which we have got exceptionally close to and got amazing photographs.  We have also walked past sea lions and iguanas and snorkelled with penguins and sharks.  The wildlife seems unfazed by our presence and does not seen threatened in any way.

Photos of the Galpagos will be on the next blog! (No wi-Fi on the boat so we are hoping to access the internet while visiting a Galapagos town this evening).

Yes, got to the internet - it could be another 5 days before we have access again so ......until 'next' week.

Photos from Ecuador

Blog photos from Quito and Banos:

1. Horse and carriage ride around Quito - $16 for 30 mins.

2. Mountain hike in Banos overlooking the town.

3.The cyclists starting off on the 60kms ride.

4. A.J. and friend.

5. A 'beautiful, powerful' waterfall along the bike ride. 20mins walk away from the track.

6. The 'sprightly' lunch waiter along the bike trail.

7. A.J. passing a truck of mattresses along the trail.

8. Robin and A.J.'s motorbike ride took them up the mountain where they were building the cobbled road.

9. From the top of the mountain overlooking the township of Banos.

Banos, Central Ecuador

There were three main reasons for coming to Ecuador. To visit the Galapagos Islands, do a trip into the Amazon and to visit the mountain villages in the central highlands. We can now tick off the mountain villages. We are about to leave Banos after 3 fantastic days.

 Banos is nestled under South America's most active volcano - Mt Tungurahua, at 5016m. It has been quite active this past month but quiet while we have been here! Banos, in the past, has been completely wiped out by its volcanic activity, annihilating the entire population. The township is settled on a flat plateau of the valley floor, hemmed by luxuriant green peaks, blessed with steaming thermal baths and surrounded by beautiful waterfalls. Most of the visitors come here to hike, soak, ride mountain bikes, zip around on quad bikes and two wheelers, go white water rafting - it's a bit like a mini Queenstown and fortunately we are here before the high season. We managed to hike a bit, ride mountain bikes for 60 kms down the descend (though there were plenty of 'ups!') to an outlying town of Puyo on the edge of the Amazon Basin (and bus back). Robin and A.J. hired 2 wheel motorbikes and scooted up both sides of the mountains from Banos for the views (and for the challenge). We shopped while they did that. Also a steam bath and massage. The food has been amazing. The accommodation so good. The people are ‘vertically challenged’ but SO friendly and helpful. I'll put in a few prices to show you the deal for Ecuador.

Accommodation for a double room (large) with bathroom - $17.00 U.S. And this hostel / hotel has a communal fridge of drinks including beer that you just help yourself to and write down your room number! Run by a delightful Ecuadorian family.

Mountain bike hire for the day - $10

Motorbike hire by the hour - $9

Breakfast - juice, fruit, grain, 3 breads plus butter and jam, coffee - $5

Dinner last night - free movie to watch, drinks, nibbles, more drinks, dinner for 5 - $56!!!

Steam Bath – 45 min - $3.50

Massage – 1 hour - $25.

Petrol – 40c per litre

500ml Pilsener Beer in café $1.70

We are heading back to Quito today and further north to a famous Saturday market town for a couple of nights. Then it's out to the Galapagos on a big cat for 8 days, (it was a wise decision to leave this booking until we got here as the deal is less than 50% of what we would have got had we booked in N.Z.)  straight into the Amazon for 5 days and then there will be very little time.

Photos could be more of a challenge until Sunday night when we are back in Quito. 'Little' wi-Fi' available in Otavalo, where we are.

The end of Colombia and onto Ecuador

Arrived in Ecuador safe and sound yesterday. Robin and Clarie have joined us and we have spent the day sorting out the itinerary for Ecuador. Heading out to the Galapagos Is on the 16th for a week and  into the Amazon to a lodge for a week following that. In the meantime we are off to the mountain villages to the south of Quito (pronounced Keytoe).
Finished up in Colombia having a fantastic 2+ weeks. The highlights would have been staying with the 2 families but it was all 'so' good.
Attaching a few of those photos. Bogota streets on a Sunday where they shut off 120kms of the roads and open them to cyclists, roller bladeing, runners and dog walkers - what a great idea. Beautiful flower shop, Willy Jeeps in a cute village square in the mountains, 4 not so cute old men but ones with loads of character, A.J. and one of our hosts up a look out tower, and a balcony of flowers (and a wee dog Belinda!!! and Faith!!).

Adios.

Photos from Bogota and onto the Coffee Region of Columbia (Horse riding, flowers, hummingbirds,butterfles.