Last days in South America.

Well, this will be the last post on this blog as we are 'heading home'! Today we have purchased our last 'art' from a beautiful port town called Valparaiso, on the coast of Chile a couple of hours out of Santiago, so it must be time.

 Valparaiso's appeal is the fact that the 'commercial flat area' is surrounded by old 'very' colourful wooden houses perched on hillsides accessed by tens of 'ascensors' (cable cars - some completely vertical, some sloped, some inside , some out, built between 1883 and 1911, between 60m and 175m in length). We are staying on a hill where 3 'ascensors' provide access from 3 different directions.  It is really very picturesque and we have been blessed with fine sunny (only slightly warm) weather while we have been here. Santiago in comparison was freezing on the first day. It then rained overnight and cleared to a sunny crisp day when we managed to seeing the stunning Andes mountains, that surround the valley, Santiago lies in.

Tomorrow we return to Santiago (bracing ourselves for chiller weather) stay 1 night, spent the day (hopefully do a wine tour of a local winery) and catch our plane late that night. We completely miss Saturday (due to the time difference) and arrive home early Sunday morning. Looking forward to seeing you all soon.

Love Viv and A.J.

P.S. There are a few photos to add for the last week but internet (once again) isn't too strong so if they dont appear, it's due to the time it will take to attach them.

News from Buenos Aires

 Argentinian style barbecue with 'large' cuts of meat!

 Titivating the Hereford prior to judging. Note, combs, brushes and .....hair spray can. And look at that tail bombom! (Belinda this is one of two jobs A.J. and I have spotted for you if you should you ever contemplate emigrating. - I can imagine that it pays well!!!)

 A.J. walking through 'one of the street's of  Recoletta  Cemetery.

Professional dog walkers in B.A. (Job number 2 suggestion for you Belinda)  They head toward park 'exercise areas' (that are sooooooo smelly). unfortunately (along with smokers butts) dog poo is 'not'controlled / collected.

 A.J. at La Boca Juniors stadium - note beautiful day.

 Colourful example of a street scene in La Boca - influenced by the 'mainly Italian' immigrants who have populated the area since 1800 (and something).

 Tango in the street - San Telmo Plaza - Saturday afternoon.

Another scene in La Boca.

Wednesday 20^th July

Well, who would have expected an Agricultural Show in the middle of B.A. when we were here? We just stumbled across it yesterday, but due late afternoon fatigue, returned to have a look around this morning. It was a mini version of our Field Days mixed up with regional A&P show held on a permanent site (owned by Rural Argentina). We spent a couple of hours wandering around, watching cattle and horses being judged and seeing what was on offer for the agricultural world of S.A. We did take quite some time before we located the dairy cows and there wasn't much in the line of dairy farm machinery but it gave A.J. a little 'fix'. All the animals were very placid, all in inside pens with pathways of hay (a bit like a red carpet) laid down for them to walk along to and from the parade ground. Pigs, sheep, hens, rabbits, dairy and beef cattle, gauchoes riding horses, and probably a few breeds we didn't see. 'All Flex' was the only sign of a N.Z. company represented but little sign of any Kiwis there.

The other interesting place we went to today was the Recoleta Cemetery. Now A.J. had other opinions from 'interesting' but I found the opulence of the whole thing amazing. We 'think' there were 296 plots which represent families who have purchased a plot over the past .....100 years. These plots are 'mini' palaces, 3 to 4 m high (and cellars going underground)with ornate architecture and sculptures containing 8 or more coffins with bodies (or maybe some ashes)with room for further members of the family to be added at appropriate times. The most famous plot is owned by the 'Peron' family containing Evita's body. But there are other famous graves as well. It was like visiting a small township of roadways .....a photo should come up on the blog and you will appreciate what I am describing.

Yesterday we took a tour of the Opera House. Now this is one incredible building. Build at the beginning of the 20th century when Argentina (the 8th largest country) was infact the 7th richest in the world. Its major lacking was population. To entice immigrants from Europe, they decided to build some impression buildings so that the Europeans would 'feel at home' in a country that was inviting them to make it  their home. It took over a decade with 3 changes of European architects (2 died) and every product in the construction was brought over from Europe - marble (HEAPS of it), stained glass, painting for the ceilings, chandaliers, tiles etc. It is 6? stories high with a further 2 or 3 going underground. It seats 2500 with room for another 500 standing.

Buenos Aires has a few more buildings (we are yet to see) that imitate famous European or American buildings - all part of the plot to entice immigrants. The main thoroughfare of the city is 10 lanes wide, with three divisions - the mayor of the late 1800 wanted a road to mimic Paris and initiated the development of what is the world widest road. It takes quite some effort to cross!

Last night we had our second taste of Tango. It was in our restaurant we chose (purposely) for dinner. A young couple doing several dance routines at a time. We had tried earlier to go to the Tango Museum for a bit of research gathering, but it was entirely in Spanish without an English booklet for explanation, so we left uninformed. Actually yesterday there were a couple of other non-events for us too. We walked miles to an art exhibition that was finished the day before (as was advertised in the tourist mag) and then we discovered that the Planetarium (after another couple of kms) was also closed - for renovations. Today has been more successful - and tomorrow, we are off to Uruguay for the day :-).

Back from Uruguay – lovely day, cute settlement to wander around but the outing was a little uninspiring. Of course Uruguay is on top of the world at the mo with their team being finalists in the Copa Soccer Cup after beating Argentina in the quarter finals. The ‘final’ is to be played in nearby La Plata, Sunday night and A.J. has just discovered that the Uruguayan Team is staying opposite – loads of noise out on the street just before. We will not be here for the event.

Friday- and we spent the day on the tourist bus checking out the part of the city we hadn’t yet explored and today, our last day in B.A. we have been around the colourful streets of La Boca. (including a look into La Boca Juniors Museum and their home stadium). Today was the pick of the days weather wise, so we sampled some more Tango in the plaza of San Telmo (our home base) on the way home. Oops, forgot to mention that we went out for dinner and a show of Tango last night – mediocre food but great dancing and music. We have DEFINITELY been put off even attempting Tango after seeing what it really involves!

Of to Chile tomorrow.

Cheers - Viv and A.J.

Northern Argentina4

 This photos is from the end of our time in Bolivia - in one of the canyons around Tupiza that we walked into. Beautiful afternoon shadows.

 Northern Argentina scenery - from out of the bus window.

 A.J. and our mini bus driver walking into the scenic Quebrada de Cafayate - day tour from Cafayate.

 A.J. - Quebrada de Cafayate.

 Wider view from the one before.

 The vast landscape (A.J.)

 The effect of water erosion over thousands of years.

Still in the Quebrada de Cafayate.
(I dont think I have 'ever' manage to have the appropriate photos with the appropriate blog, so this could be a first!!!! The internet is definitely better in Argentina. And labels are below each photo!!!! (I really should have been able to 'do' this before.)

Just when we thought we could not be inspired by any more landscapes, Northern Argentina has done just that. We are approx 400kms below the Bolivian border and currently at a place called Cafayate, the centre for the highest vineyards in the world. With the high altitude, stony soils, 'high' sunshine days (340 a year!!!), low rainfall (200mm) but access to mountain streams, high day time temps and low night time temps, they produce very good 'Torrentes' and 'Malbec' wines here. Vineyards are plentiful and all within biking distance. So yesterday we were back on bikes for a downhill trek(after being delivered 'up')  and we visited 4 vineyards. We have been inspired by the fruity but dry, 'Torrentes' wines and have a nice bottle to open tonight.
And then there are the landscapes around these valleys. The photos that 'should' accompany this blog are all of landscapes. One frame really doesn't capture the scope of the scenery - and it is vast, but you will see the colours, the layering, the variety. There is a lot of quartz so mostly Metamorphic rocks created underground and thrust up as a result of volcanic and seismic activity. Then erosionwith wind and rain has taken place.
We crossed from Bolivia a week ago. Stayed in the northern village of Tilcara for a couple of days. Another bus trip took us to Salta, the capital of this area for a couple of nights and then another trip south brought us to Cafayate. We return to Salta tomorrow and fly east to Iguazu on the Brazilian border to see the great waterfalls of Iguazu then head south towards Buenos Aires for a week.
For those unaware, we do not have any phone contact in South America. The 'new' phone I bought from Vodofone that was 'supposed' to roam to S.A. isn't compatiable after all! :-( Email is really our only option.
We heard from Matt this morning. He is now in Romania - for 3 or so weeks. He was flown out by his boss from Peterborough in England and will work on the harvest out there until returning to England for their harvest. He is enjoying the opportunity and currently based around Craoiva, which is in the south - with temperatures of 40 at the moment.His comments were that there are more horse and carts than cars and quite a contrast between the scale of farms.

Bolivia - La Paz and tour of South East.

1. La Paz - on a quiet Sunday - street of our hostel
2.Loading the Toyotos in Tupiza ready for 4 days of adventure
3. Toyoto going through river of ice
4.Beautiful Laguna Verde (Green Lake) coloured by minerals (arsenic +?)
5.Sign - specifically for the English speakers!!!
6.Laguna Colorado with volcano reflection and flamingoes in centre.
7. A.J. early morning on the huge Salt Lake
8.A.J. balancing on top of the vegemite jar!!!!!( Photography with licence)
9. Viv in boots too big. (We had loads of fun doing these shots)
10. Accommodation night 2. Early the next morning. Warming up from the -20!!!!! Though I still look frozen.

End of Bolivia

It's only been 2 weeks but we are departing Bolivia today and heading into Argentina. Last winter we visited the Kimberley area of W. Australia and were treated to unbelievably beautiful landscapes. For the last 4 days we have travelled 1200kms through Bolivia's remote south east (on gravel roads) and our experiences last year could only be preparation for what we saw in Bolivia. The South East borders both Argentina and Chile (Acatama Desert) and is a huge volcanic region, rich in minerals. Hence the lakes (many frozen over) are multi coloured, the snow capped volcanoes tower over 6000m, the landscapes change from desert to eroded rocks (also multi-coloured), flamingoes wading in semi frozen mineral rich lakes, coral islands covered in cacti, vast areas of salt flats (the biggest in the world at 1200sq kms with the biggest Lithium reserves in the world ), dried river beds deeply eroded by ancient rivers, volcanic larva flows and llama grazing on semi frozen marshlands. It was absolutely incredible and …….. incredibly cold! The cold is dry with winds blowing frequently. We had enough clothes but spent little time out of the Toyota – just to take the photos. Accommodation (at 3700m, 4300m then 3700m)was as basic as you could imagine. No heating (a ‘little’ wood burner on Night 2 which could fit 50% of the travellers huddled around in the evening), hired sleeping bags with extra blankets provided. We went to bed with all our clothes on, in fact we never took much off in 4 days! Bottles of water froze overnight on the window sill. We were in a convoy of 5 Toyotas with an combination of travellers from all over the world – we were the only Kiwis (as we have been throughout our trip) and old enough to be everyone’s parents but it was a good group.

A.J.’s description of the S.East is being a cross between the Tongariro Crossing (multipled by 10,000) with thermal influences and Antartica with it’s frozen cold. It’s sparsely populated (understandably) but there are brave souls living in this environment and farming llama and working in mines.

We are now on the road to Argentina and hopefully a better internet network so that I can sahre some Bolivian photos with you. Bolivia has been harder work than Peru for travel and communication. We would have loved to have stayed longer but then that would sacrifice our time allocation for Argentina. A.J. is over the dry cold and looking forward to a change of food and ……wine!  

Photos from Peru and the beginning of Bolivia

1. A.J. on dairy farm in Sacred Valley with women stripping maize cobs.
2.Ollantytambo - Sacred Valley. Ancient Inca Ruins. A.J.
3. Same place - looking across valley towards another 'archeological site'.
4. Inca ruins at Moray, Sacred Valley, visited on bike ride. Site used for agricultural study of terracing.
5. Still on bike ride, Sacred Valley. Salt being harvested from terracing.
6. Downhill biking - Sacred Valley (Viv) x 2 by accident
8.Bolivia - glimpse of the World's Most Dangerous Road.
9.A.J. biking the W.M.D.R..

Week 2 in Bolivia

Week 2 in Bolivia and we are being treated to a 13 hr overnight train trip to the far south (following a 4 hr bus ride). Not an ideal way to sleep but to get there it 'may' be the most comfortable and relaxing journey. Other options were to fly but landing and probably take off from La Paz can be quite ......exhilarating in the thin air - we landed at such a speed when arriving from Cusco and we wondered if there was going to be enough run way with the lack of deceleration. Buses are the other option and we have done a few trips lately over some narrow mountain paths, clocking up many hours in pretty cramped positions - so it is the train.

We left La Paz after 2 nights and visited 2 outlying mountain villages. While in Coroico to the north (end of the downhill bike ride) we visited a local village of Afro-Bolivians whose main income source is from growing and harvesting cocaWe walked in the fields, saw the harvest drying and ...... yes have tried chewing the leaves to assist with altitude (also drinking the tea, which is commonly available .These people are descendants of the slaves that the Spanish brought in initially for the silver mines and then to work on the plantations during the 18th and 19th centuries. These people have struggled to get equal rights within Bolivia since their freedom was granted – in the mid 1900’s. Coca isn’t a crop to be proud of producing as the majority of it goes into America for the production of Cocaine but it is a crop that provides them with income (and this area is one of the best for the coca production) – as so many communities around the world are caught in the middle of corruption and survival. Today, back in La Paz we visited the Coca Museum which told the story of Coca in Bolivia and the good the bad and the ugly sides of it.

We also visited Sorata to the north east of La Paz - a 3-4 hour journey over some spectacular country with a back drop of some Andean Mountains of 6,000+ m - "Yep, this was the cramped mini-bus trip along the narrow winding mud paths." There were only 21 'inside' the mini-bus at the peak (2 or 3 more on the roof!)

So now, we are heading to Tupiza where we have a 4 day/3 night jeep trip out onto the Salt Flats. We expect some unforgetable scenery along with unforgetable cold conditions .....rumoured to be below 22C (I can hardly wait!)

One more thing - we purchased 'another' piece of art before departing La Paz. Apparently the artist may be famous one day!!!! Just something we loved and different from the other pieces we have sent home. We will look forward to sharing them with you all. There has been 'few' photos on the blog lately. Bolivian internet is ..'.very' challenging. I have them ready so will attach to a blog as soon as we get the chance.

A.J. is going to add to this - his first comtribution to the blog!!!

I am sure I have contributed a paragraph along the way!!!!    Anyway La Paz was a cool city especially if you are in your twenties and like mountainbiking,trekking,mountain climbing etc and its a cheap place to hang out .The mountains in Bolivia all seem to be over 6000m and are pretty impressive .The locals have all been very friendly and we have had no problems although it must be said that La Paz has to be the public urination capital of the world judging by the sights and smells we have witnessed.I am looking forward to our 4 day trip over the salt flats and the desert lakes of south west Bolivia as it should be like a cross between the Sahara desert and Antarctica .The driest area on earth as it bounds the Acatama desert of Chile and the temperature at night collapses to -20 degrees celcius!!!! I have had to buy some shoes and socks lately as the socks and sandals weren't cutting the mustard as we travel south in the winter.The dry winter days of full sunshine are wonderful on your back and I dont look forward to wettish cooler days of Argentina, Chile and home.

I would sadly have to add to A.J's comments regarding 'fouling' of the earth. Bolivian's show little care of the environment regarding rubbish. It is simply EVERYWHERE. The streets are cleaned up each morning but the rubbish then simply get disposed off along the nearest river bank. And plastic bottles and bags would contribute to much of this litter. All modern civilisations have this common issue, it just that there is no organisation of it here.

……….Arrived in Tupiza. Off on the 4 day/3 night tomorrow. Next blog …..after the trip.