Week 2 in Bolivia and we are being treated to a 13 hr overnight train trip to the far south (following a 4 hr bus ride). Not an ideal way to sleep but to get there it 'may' be the most comfortable and relaxing journey. Other options were to fly but landing and probably take off from La Paz can be quite ......exhilarating in the thin air - we landed at such a speed when arriving from Cusco and we wondered if there was going to be enough run way with the lack of deceleration. Buses are the other option and we have done a few trips lately over some narrow mountain paths, clocking up many hours in pretty cramped positions - so it is the train.
We left La Paz after 2 nights and visited 2 outlying mountain villages. While in Coroico to the north (end of the downhill bike ride) we visited a local village of Afro-Bolivians whose main income source is from growing and harvesting cocaWe walked in the fields, saw the harvest drying and ...... yes have tried chewing the leaves to assist with altitude (also drinking the tea, which is commonly available .These people are descendants of the slaves that the Spanish brought in initially for the silver mines and then to work on the plantations during the 18th and 19th centuries. These people have struggled to get equal rights within Bolivia since their freedom was granted – in the mid 1900’s. Coca isn’t a crop to be proud of producing as the majority of it goes into America for the production of Cocaine but it is a crop that provides them with income (and this area is one of the best for the coca production) – as so many communities around the world are caught in the middle of corruption and survival. Today, back in La Paz we visited the Coca Museum which told the story of Coca in Bolivia and the good the bad and the ugly sides of it.
We also visited Sorata to the north east of La Paz - a 3-4 hour journey over some spectacular country with a back drop of some Andean Mountains of 6,000+ m - "Yep, this was the cramped mini-bus trip along the narrow winding mud paths." There were only 21 'inside' the mini-bus at the peak (2 or 3 more on the roof!)
So now, we are heading to Tupiza where we have a 4 day/3 night jeep trip out onto the Salt Flats. We expect some unforgetable scenery along with unforgetable cold conditions .....rumoured to be below 22C (I can hardly wait!)
One more thing - we purchased 'another' piece of art before departing La Paz. Apparently the artist may be famous one day!!!! Just something we loved and different from the other pieces we have sent home. We will look forward to sharing them with you all. There has been 'few' photos on the blog lately. Bolivian internet is ..'.very' challenging. I have them ready so will attach to a blog as soon as we get the chance.
A.J. is going to add to this - his first comtribution to the blog!!!
I am sure I have contributed a paragraph along the way!!!! Anyway La Paz was a cool city especially if you are in your twenties and like mountainbiking,trekking,mountain climbing etc and its a cheap place to hang out .The mountains in Bolivia all seem to be over 6000m and are pretty impressive .The locals have all been very friendly and we have had no problems although it must be said that La Paz has to be the public urination capital of the world judging by the sights and smells we have witnessed.I am looking forward to our 4 day trip over the salt flats and the desert lakes of south west Bolivia as it should be like a cross between the Sahara desert and Antarctica .The driest area on earth as it bounds the Acatama desert of Chile and the temperature at night collapses to -20 degrees celcius!!!! I have had to buy some shoes and socks lately as the socks and sandals weren't cutting the mustard as we travel south in the winter.The dry winter days of full sunshine are wonderful on your back and I dont look forward to wettish cooler days of Argentina, Chile and home.
I would sadly have to add to A.J's comments regarding 'fouling' of the earth. Bolivian's show little care of the environment regarding rubbish. It is simply EVERYWHERE. The streets are cleaned up each morning but the rubbish then simply get disposed off along the nearest river bank. And plastic bottles and bags would contribute to much of this litter. All modern civilisations have this common issue, it just that there is no organisation of it here.
……….Arrived in Tupiza. Off on the 4 day/3 night tomorrow. Next blog …..after the trip.
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